The Holiday Tree Lighting Illuminates for the First Time Since the Start of the Conflict
For two years amid the Gaza war, all public celebrations for Christmas were called off within the city of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where Christians believe Jesus was born.
However, following the recent ceasefire, the holy city decided that this year celebrations would return, as represented by the illumination of its traditional, giant Christmas tree in front of the historic Nativity Church.
"It's been two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no jobs, no work," states the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to zero."
The mayor accepts that the idea of resuming celebrations was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza β which affects members of the tiny Christian community, who often have family ties in Bethlehem.
"Some may say it is unsuitable and others say it's appropriate," the mayor notes. "But deep inside my heart, I felt that this was the correct action to take because Christmas must never be halted or abandoned. This is the light of hope for us."
A Glimmer of Celebration Returns
Locals β both Christians and Muslims β pose for selfies before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are joined by a small number of international visitors.
Vibrant lights now decorate city streets and there are signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.
"We're very happy to see the tree, first of all, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to be able to observe the holiday in its true spirit," says local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This place is where everything began, therefore here is where we can send the message globally of what Christmas truly represents. And this year, if Christmas is peaceful, I sincerely hope it will deliver a nice message for the whole world."
Economic Prospects and Challenges
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Hotels β which have remained largely empty for the past two years β have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as some foreign visitors.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at least once in their life," she says.
"I hope a lot of people will return soon as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The only thing that is positive is you don't have lengthy queues β one can visit and see more things. When I came before it was necessary to wait in a queue for hours minimum."
Currently, the souvenir stores scattered throughout Bethlehem experience scant trade, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Church of the Nativity, which date back to the 4th century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Prior to the conflict, it was typically packed with people.
"Bethlehem is a city for tourists; without tourism there is no life," expresses a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back as in the past: from European nations, the Middle East, the Americas, Latin American and all over. We start with the Christmas tree lighting, and we'll wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
Over the last two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the lethal Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel in October 2023 that sparked the war, many thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
Meanwhile, public servants have received only partial salaries from the Palestinian Authority (PA) β that administers parts of the West Bank. The Authority relies on tax revenues gathered by Israel, which it is withholding β to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, as reported by the UN's trade and development agency.
Israeli officials state it is holding these funds due to the fact that the PA makes payments to incarcerated Palestinians that incentivise violence against Israelis. The authority β which has been under global pressure to make reforms β claims it has recently changed its social welfare system.
An Austere Christmas Season
The bleak economic situation means that for many Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public events as well as religious services, it will be a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of Manger Square, a few customers are waiting to purchase hot balls of falafel from several shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday after one of our hardest periods as a Palestinian people and as Christians," says Alaa Salameh, who runs Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery which has seen its revenues collapse. He says lately many families could not even afford falafel β a cheap, traditional food.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but according to their situation," Mr Salameh expects. "Someone who wants to bring their children to a festival or a show or whatever, he doesn't have the funds to expend for this celebration."
Hopes for Peace and Prosperity
In the cave-like grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a resident accompanies a small Indian tour group, bending down by a silver star which marks the spot where it is said that Jesus was born and igniting a candle nearby.
With tensions still high throughout the area, Bethlehem residents state they are hoping for tranquility β and hoping for tourists to come back to the place which is thought to be where Christmas started.